Webmorson · Tree growers

We grow trees. Here’s how to get the right ones in the ground.

A tree that suits its spot, goes in at the right time and gets a little care for its first two summers will usually look after itself for the rest of its life. This site is here to help with all three, and to make it easy to ask us what you need.

A broad, leafless oak standing alone in green pasture, with cattle grazing beneath it under a pale sky.
An old oak in pasture before its leaves open, Houffalize, Belgium. Photo: Benoit Brummer, CC BY 4.0.

When to plant

Most trees are happiest going in while they’re asleep.

Trees are sold in three main forms, and each has its own window. This is general guidance for the UK. A hard frost, waterlogged ground or a heatwave can close any window for a while.

Type of tree JFMAMJJASOND
Bare-rootLifted from the field with no soil
Root-balledLifted with soil, wrapped in hessian
Container-grownGrown in a pot

Good time to plant Possible, but water regularly This month

What we grow

Trees, thought about by the job they’ll do.

What we have ready changes through the year, so we’d rather hear what you’re planning than send you a long list. These are the kinds of planting we can talk through with you. Tell us which one fits and we’ll tell you what we can offer this season.

A long, tall beech hedge in rich copper autumn colour beside a field, under a blue sky.
Meikleour Beech Hedge, Perthshire, in autumn. Photo: Adam Ward, CC BY-SA 2.0.
  1. Hedging

    Boundaries, windbreaks and wildlife corridors. Hedges are usually planted as young bare-root plants, close together, so they knit into one another. Tell us the length and we can work out numbers.

  2. Woodland and shelter

    Larger plantings where numbers matter more than size. Small trees (often called whips) are cheaper, cope with exposure better and usually catch up with bigger trees within a few years.

  3. A tree for a particular spot

    One or two trees for a garden, a driveway or a memorial. Here the questions are about eventual size, shade, roots near buildings and what you want to see in each season.

  4. Not sure yet

    That’s fine. Tell us about the ground, how exposed it is and what you’d like the trees to do, and we’ll suggest a starting point.

A small pile of English oak acorns on dark soil, each sending out a pale first root.
English oak acorns putting out their first roots. Photo: Dominicus Johannes Bergsma, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Our approach

A tree is a long conversation. We’d like the first part to be a good one.

Right tree, right place. We’ll ask about your soil, your space and your plans before we suggest anything. A tree that’s wrong for its spot is a slow disappointment, however good it looked when it arrived.

Plain answers. If a tree won’t suit your site, or now isn’t the time to plant, we’ll say so.

Help after it’s in. Most young trees that fail do so in their first couple of summers, usually from drought or competition from grass. The guide below covers the things that make the biggest difference.

Planting

Planting a young tree, step by step.

This is general advice that suits most young trees in most gardens and fields. If your site is unusual (very wet, very exposed, on a slope) ask us first.

Cross-section of a newly planted tree The planting hole is wide and shallow. The root collar sits level with the soil. A ring of mulch surrounds the tree but stops short of the stem. A short stake is tied loosely low on the trunk. 1 2 3 4
  1. Root collar (where stem meets roots) level with the soil, not buried
  2. Mulch ring about 5–8 cm deep, kept clear of the stem
  3. Hole wider than the roots, but no deeper
  4. Short stake and loose tie, only if the site is exposed
  1. Keep the roots damp

    Bare roots can dry out in minutes in wind or sun. Keep them wrapped until the moment you plant. If you can’t plant for a few days, “heel them in” by laying them in a shallow trench and covering the roots with soil.

  2. Pick your day

    Avoid frozen, waterlogged or sticky ground. If soil smears when you squeeze it, wait a few days.

  3. Dig wide, not deep

    Make the hole wide enough to spread the roots out, and only as deep as the roots need. Break up the sides of the hole so roots can get out into the surrounding soil, especially in clay.

  4. Set the height

    Look for the change in colour where the stem meets the roots. That mark sits level with the ground. Burying the stem is one of the most common reasons young trees fail.

  5. Backfill, firm, water

    Return the soil around the roots, firming gently with your heel as you go, then give it a thorough soaking even if rain is due.

  6. Mulch and keep the grass back

    Grass and weeds take water a young tree needs. Keep a circle around the stem, about a metre across, clear for the first few years and cover it with mulch.

  7. Protect if needed

    Where there are rabbits or deer, use guards or fencing from day one. They can strip a new planting in a night.

  8. Water through the first two summers

    In dry spells, give a long soak once or twice a week rather than a splash every day. This matters more than anything else once the tree is in.

Words you’ll see on tree lists

Whip
A young tree that is a single stem with few or no side branches. Cheap, quick to plant and good at establishing.
Feathered
A young tree with side shoots (“feathers”) along its stem.
Standard
A larger tree with a clear stem below the branches. Usually sized by the girth of the trunk, e.g. 8–10 cm.
Bare-root
Lifted from the field while dormant, with no soil. Only available in the dormant season.
Root-balled
Lifted with a ball of soil, wrapped to hold it together. Used for larger trees and evergreens.
Hedge spacing
Mixed hedges are often planted at about 5 plants per metre in a staggered double row, or about 3 per metre in a single row.

Plan an enquiry

Tell us what you’re planning.

Answer as much or as little as you like. As you go, you’ll see notes worth knowing for your site. When you’re ready, it writes an email for you to check and send from your own email app. Nothing is sent or stored by this page.

What are you planting?
When would you like to plant?
About the site
About you

Contact

The quickest way to reach us is by email.

john.bower@webmorson.co.uk

We don’t have a contact form yet. Write to us about what you’d like to plant, where, and roughly when, and we’ll get back to you.